In astonishingly general terms, there are three basic strategies employed. You must be agile enough to switch game plans quickly as the course of the match unfolds.

The Blockade

This is comprised of creating a 6-thick wall of pieces, or at a minimum as deep as you can achieve, to block in the competitor’s pieces that are located on your 1-point. This is deemed to be the most adequate course of action at the begining of the match. You can assemble the wall anyplace inbetween your eleven-point and your two-point and then shift it into your home board as the game continues.

The Blitz

This consists of locking your home board as quick as possible while keeping your opposer on the bar. For example, if your challenger rolls an early two and moves one piece from your 1-point to your 3-point and you then toss a 5-5, you are able to play six/one six/one eight/three eight/three. Your opposer is then in big-time calamity taking into account that they have 2 checkers on the bar and you have locked half your inner board!

The Backgame

This course of action is where you have two or more pieces in your opponent’s home board. (An anchor spot is a point occupied by at a minimum two of your pieces.) It should be played when you are extremely behind as it greatly improves your chances. The strongest locations for anchors are close to your competitor’s lower points and either on adjacent points or with one point in between. Timing is essential for a powerful backgame: besides, there is no reason having 2 nice anchors and a complete wall in your own home board if you are then required to break down this right away, while your challenger is moving their pieces home, owing to the fact that you don’t have other additional checkers to move! In this case, it’s more tolerable to have checkers on the bar so that you can preserve your position up until your opponent gives you an opportunity to hit, so it will be an excellent idea to try and get your challenger to hit them in this case!