In extraordinarily general terms, there are 3 main game plans employed. You must be able to switch techniques almost instantly as the course of the game unfolds.

The Blockade

This involves building a 6-thick wall of pieces, or at least as thick as you might manage, to lock in your opponent’s checkers that are on your 1-point. This is deemed to be the most acceptable procedure at the begining of the match. You can build the wall anyplace between your 11-point and your 2-point and then shift it into your home board as the game continues.

The Blitz

This is comprised of closing your home board as fast as as you can while keeping your opponent on the bar. e.g., if your opposer tosses an early two and moves one checker from your one-point to your 3-point and you then roll a 5-5, you are able to play 6/1 six/one eight/three eight/three. Your challenger is then in big-time calamity taking into account that they have 2 pieces on the bar and you have locked half your inner board!

The Backgame

This strategy is where you have 2 or more checkers in your competitor’s home board. (An anchor spot is a position consisting of at a minimum 2 of your pieces.) It must be used when you are extremely behind as this plan much improves your opportunities. The better areas for anchors are towards your opponent’s smaller points and also on abutting points or with one point in between. Timing is essential for an effective backgame: besides, there is no reason having two nice anchor spots and a complete wall in your own home board if you are then forced to break up this straight away, while your opponent is getting their checkers home, owing to the fact that you do not have any other additional checkers to move! In this case, it is better to have pieces on the bar so that you are able to preserve your position until your opposer provides you a chance to hit, so it can be a good idea to try and get your opposer to hit them in this situation!