In astonishingly general terms, there are 3 general game plans used. You need to be able to switch tactics almost instantly as the course of the game unfolds.
The Blockade
This is composed of creating a 6-deep wall of pieces, or at least as deep as you can manage, to barricade in your competitor’s pieces that are located on your 1-point. This is deemed to be the most adequate strategy at the begining of the match. You can create the wall anywhere within your 11-point and your 2-point and then shift it into your home board as the match progresses.
The Blitz
This is comprised of locking your home board as fast as possible while keeping your opponent on the bar. i.e., if your opposer rolls an early 2 and moves one checker from your one-point to your 3-point and you then roll a 5-5, you will be able to play 6/1 6/1 eight/three 8/3. Your challenger is then in serious dire straits seeing that they have two pieces on the bar and you have closed half your home board!
The Backgame
This course of action is where you have 2 or higher pieces in your opponent’s home board. (An anchor is a position consisting of at least 2 of your pieces.) It would be employed when you are extremely behind as it much improves your chances. The better locations for anchor spots are towards your competitor’s smaller points and either on abutting points or with one point in between. Timing is important for a powerful backgame: besides, there’s no point having 2 nice anchor spots and a solid wall in your own home board if you are then required to dismantle this right away, while your competitor is shifting their checkers home, taking into account that you do not have any other spare checkers to move! In this situation, it is better to have pieces on the bar so that you are able to maintain your position up until your challenger gives you an opportunity to hit, so it may be a wonderful idea to try and get your challenger to get them in this case!
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