In astonishingly general terms, there are three basic game plans employed. You need to be agile enough to hop between techniques quickly as the action of the game unfolds.

The Blockade

This comprises of creating a 6-thick wall of pieces, or at least as thick as you can manage, to lock in the competitor’s checkers that are located on your 1-point. This is deemed to be the most acceptable procedure at the begining of the game. You can assemble the wall anywhere between your 11-point and your two-point and then shift it into your home board as the game advances.

The Blitz

This involves locking your home board as quick as as you can while keeping your opponent on the bar. For example, if your competitor tosses an early 2 and moves one piece from your one-point to your 3-point and you then roll a 5-5, you are able to play six/one 6/1 8/3 8/3. Your challenger is now in serious difficulty since they have two checkers on the bar and you have closed half your home board!

The Backgame

This tactic is where you have 2 or more anchors in your opponent’s home board. (An anchor is a position consisting of at a minimum 2 of your checkers.) It needs to be used when you are significantly behind as this action much improves your circumstances. The strongest locations for anchor spots are near your competitor’s lower points and either on abutting points or with a single point separating them. Timing is important for a powerful backgame: after all, there’s no reason having 2 nice anchors and a solid wall in your own home board if you are then forced to break up this right away, while your opponent is shifting their checkers home, considering that you do not have any other extra pieces to move! In this case, it’s more tolerable to have pieces on the bar so that you might maintain your position up until your opponent gives you a chance to hit, so it may be a good idea to try and get your challenger to hit them in this case!